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Xi He portraitWhen Dr Xi He received Poland’s national award for the best doctoral dissertation in the field of separation techniques this autumn, it marked a major milestone in a research journey defined by curiosity and innovation. Her PhD research, exploring the chemistry behind the aromas of Baijiu, a traditional Chinese spirit, stood out for its scientific merit, innovation and publication impact, earning recognition from the Polish Academy of Sciences for advancing separation science Separation science involves the use of chemical and physical techniques to isolate, identify, and quantify specific components of complex mixtures such as food and drinks.

Today, Dr He continues to push the boundaries of flavour research as a Flavour Technologist at NRI, where she is unravelling the molecular language of taste. Her work has broad applications, from improving flavour and quality, to detecting authenticity, and even reducing food waste by enhancing taste in valorised products.

‘Flavour science is like decoding a sensory language. Studying volatile compounds at the molecular level and identifying those responsible for aroma gives us deeper insight into how flavour is perceived. This understanding helps support and improve food quality monitoring, enhance consumer experience, and even trace authenticity, as a food’s volatile profile can serve as a unique “fingerprint”,’ she explained.

Laying the foundation

At the Poznań University of Life Sciences, Dr He’s PhD research analysed the volatile compounds that give Baijiu its distinctive character, and explored its aroma/flavour types, regional origins and botanical sources. This work laid the foundation for her current focus: understanding how volatile compounds shape the sensory qualities of foods and beverages.

Deciphering flavour

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Dr Xi explaining her work to visitors at the Medway Food Innovation Centre at NRI

‘Although we often say we “taste” food, over 75% of what we perceive as taste actually comes from smell. This involves both orthonasal olfaction (smelling through the nose before eating) and retronasal olfaction (smelling through the back of the throat during chewing and swallowing),’ Dr He explained. She is using advanced tools including electronic tongue technology – an analytical tool that mimics the human sense of taste to measure the chemical composition of liquid samples of food and drink – to uncover how different compounds interact to create the sensory experiences we associate with specific foods.

Innovating for taste and sustainability

At NRI, Dr He leads a project exploring wine ageing and developing low or non-alcoholic wines without compromising flavour, an area of rapid market growth projected to reach USD 12 billion by 2034. She is also applying her expertise to alternative proteins as part of the Bezos Centre’s research portfolio, tackling the 'beany’ off-flavours that often discourage consumers.

By identifying and mitigating undesirable compounds, and understanding how processing and texture affect aroma, her work helps make plant-based foods more appealing, bridging the gap between sustainability and sensory satisfaction.

‘Flavour drives consumer choice,’ Dr He noted. ‘If we want more people to embrace sustainable diets, we must make those foods enjoyable and good for the planet.’

Collaboration and vision

Beyond her research, Dr He supports food businesses in Kent and Medway through the Growing Kent & Medway initiative, offering advice on flavour-related challenges and helping companies innovate responsibly.

Looking ahead, she envisions creating a specialised centre at NRI, integrating analytical chemistry, artificial intelligence, and sustainable food science to tackle future challenges. Her goal: to link climate change, agricultural practices, and flavour science into a unified framework that promotes resilient, flavourful, and sustainable food systems.

‘My aspiration is to bring science, sustainability and sensory experience together,’ she said. ‘Flavour connects people to food and food connects us to the world around us.’

Inspiring the next generation

For Dr He, science is not just technical; it’s personal and creative. She hopes her story inspires the next generation of food scientists, particularly young women in STEM.

‘Be curious, be bold, and carve your own path,’ she advised. ‘Food science has room for creativity, rigour and real-world impact. Your perspective is essential to shaping the future of food.’

From distilling the essence of Baijiu to reimagining wine and plant-based proteins, Dr He’s journey reflects one of NRI’s core priorities: leveraging.